Clothing
One of the hardest things to research and the cost of reenacting will go towards your period clothing. Any other gear will cost you a lot but reenactors go the extra mile of accurately portraying any period they are portraying on their clothing. The clothing is something that if you get wrong you will definitely hear some criticism so always look to other reenactors for help. Especially those who have reenacted for a long time.
If you have any questions regarding clothing don’t hesitate to e-mail us your questions.
1. Please tell us what period you portray, and what your clothing consists of for the person you are portraying?
HH: 800-1600s-I can’t say enough good things (for women) about having a simple kirtle, simple chemise, surcoat, bodice and vest. Turnshoes are also a must and I can wear them with either masculine or feminine wear. Europe. I tend to be middle-class and that can be dressed up or down with additional coats, hats or fabrics.
SPECIFIC: early 1400’s middle-class household (male) servant-hose, turnshoes, cothardie with matching sock cap. It should be braes/leggings but the coat is long enough not to matter.
early 1300s: Female, merchant class. brown kirtle, dark red sideless surcoat with ochre trim. turnhoes (again) linen cloth square (wimple) with simple circlet-this can alternate with a simple tie cap that can be used as an arming cap. (They are also fabulous in summer because they can be soaked in water to keep the head cool)
1600’s middle-class female household-Chemise, bodice or vest a pair of modified Mary Janes (shhhh it will be our secret) modified fez and linen cloth.
BD: 1770-1790. I have many personas but the basics are linen shift, stockings and shoes with simple buckles. A pair of pockets, 2 under petticoats, a Gown of some sort. Bum Roll or side hips (depending on the gown and the year) Neckhandkerchief, fine cambric cap and topped with a silk covered straw hat. For Cold weather I have a short wool cloak and bonnet. Knit mitts that go up past my elbow and a fur muff. My petticoat is quilted for extra warmth.
DS: Civil war to late 1800s, upper class (other as required). Get your corset custom made or make it yourself. Use only natural fabrics or buy clothing made from natural fabrics. In addition to the corset, chemise, drawers, cotton stockings and period garters, leather lace-up boots from a reputable sutler, corset cover, two petticoats, hoop or period correct bustle (bustle did change shape and size). Skirt, matching bodice for day and a bodice for evening, overskirt, short white gloves, fan, cameo jewelry is easiest to find when starting out (bracelet, brooch, ring, ear bobs – French hook or fish hook style – not posts -, necklace), long wool cape, day cap for inside, bonnet for outside, evening headdress, hair pieces to create correct looks.
JM: 10,000 BC dead animal was all the rage!
LS: English Civil War. Soldiers coat, Breeches, Socks and Shirt. I also play a civilian along with my wife and daughter
GFFIII: Hat, shirt, breeches, stockings, garters, shoes, buckles, stock, vest (waistscoat), coat. Thats it. Soldier.
AMG: California Gold Rush: hoop skirt, corset, chemise, stockings, boots, skirt, blouse, bonnet, gloves
JL: F&I war frontier scum, breech clout, leggings, hunting shirt,mocc’s, knife, tomahawk, shooting bag,powderhorn, blunderbus, snapsack, bedroll and a bad attitude don’t need much else other than rum and wenches
2. Tops Sutlers to buy reenacting gear. Your opinions on the best store or sutler to buy from.
CS: Laura Trudelle, and the Mad Russian or whatever he calls himself now, Evett and Allan whatever they call themselves, and Jeff Miller who has got to be about the best Reenactor blacksmith out there other than a family friend’s friend who is as well a blacksmith.
WH: Crazy Crow and Jas Townsend. Most of the stuff I’m wearing now either came from Ghost Forge (expensive, but worth it if you’re a huge fatarse like myself).
GF: Roy Najecki is very good as is Avalon Forge and G Gedney Godwin for some things. Stuart Lilie leather is super.
SWF: For goods; Ghost Forge, Glenn McClain, Smoke & Fire, Mark Ammick; For clothing I buy patterns then my mother sews the clothing to make sure it is accurate.
CH: I would have to say Burnley and Trowbridge. They have excellent fabrics and accurate patterns.
3. What has been your most expensive purchase for reenacting?
- Tents
- Dishes
- Musket/ Guns (1853 Defarbed Enfield Musket,
- Airline tickets for events.
- Quill work
- Silver (native reenacting is one of the more expensive portrayals)
4. What is the most difficult clothing or equipment to find for the hobby?
- 1812 Us 1200
- A gambeson that fits
- Accurate hats
- Accurate material for Jackets and Trousers.
- Accurate Stays
- Accurate uniform information!
- Affortable firearms
- Bear Grease
- Csmc 250
- French Marine 700
- Military Reg Coats
- My Ss Tunic 600
- Proper footware
- US Highlander undergarments
5. What pieces of clothing should a new recruit focus on buying or making?
JF: Start from the inside out with a shirt and stockings.
TW: First things I would reccomomend are trews and greatcoat, they cover a multitude of sins and lets the neewbie get started playing while their redcoat and other fancy bits get made/bought
HH: I started with a good pair of turnshoes and a gambeson. Simple pants then simple shirts. Add hats, coats and vests. Be aware of color palettes and your time periods. If you are in a group you will probably “inherit” their early wear. If you are not handy, second-hand shops and Salvation Army often has clothing to modify to fake it sufficiently in the beginning. If absolute detailing is necessary, don’t mess around, find a good custom clothier, it really IS better in the long run because well-made wear is good for years.
JJ: I first bought shoes first, since it was the first expenses thing on my body.
HSV: I started with my bodice, a very simple, reversible one. Then I made the chemise, and a panel skirt. They were quick to do and ready for my first event. I already had an arisaid. Then I could concentrated on refining my wardrobe based on the character I developed. I bought cheap ballet flats for shoes.
CH: tunic. then cloak. then mantle. everything else comes with time.
KBH: This is for a lady in the 18th century: Get or make a linen shift, 2 petticoats, a sleeved garment such as a bedgown, a correct cap (not a drawstring or elastic one), a neck handkerchief and an apron. Cotton or wool stockings if working near a fire. Later, once you get “into it” more, repro shoes and stays become essential. Then you can get a gown.
For Civil War, a shift, pantalettes, several petticoats, a correctly styled cotton dress with a white collar and, though I hate to say it, a corset is a must right away or else your dress won’t look right. Same stocking issue as above if working near a fire. You can add a wool or silk dress, repro shoes, a hoopskirt and a bonnet later. And, for Civil War, ya just gotta part your hair in the middle 
. That’s my two pence, someone else probably already said all that.
LS: Breeches, Shirt, socks and soldiers jacket, Also if able to afford shoes
GFFIII: hat! http://cockedhats.com
ZT: I dunno…I always started with the weapon myself, and borrowed clothes until I was able to slowly buy what I needed. Now, I have at least two full uniforms that belong to me. Took me two years, but I did it without breaking the bank!
6. What piece of period clothing was the easiest to make?
Answers coming soon!
7. What piece of period clothing has been the hardest to make?
ED: Stays
HH: Yeah, definitely corsets
AL: Breeches
MK: Quill work hands down
DS: everything I have to wear.
HWR: Breeches…
HSV: chemises and sarks.
JK: Flags! I know its not clothing but it can be very hard at time when you have a lot of details.
CS: Corsets. Been doing them for years and still get tricked by them sometimes.
JL: french fly knee britches, knife sheaths, Hunting shirts. Want to make a period box to put my cooler in.
EW: I agree on the breeches… it was like a jigsaw puzzle!! In the end we worked it out, but it took 4 of us to get to a good end result… or at least, we think its supposed to be like that 
SM: a cooler??? that’s just not right…… and french fly breeches have to be the hardest to make
TH: Gaiters, for some reason, tend to be a real bitch. All those buttonholes, probably…
RS: Breeches are the hardest
DC: I have had a bunch of professional seamstresses make a lot of 18th century clothes for me for our movie, including 7 Redcoat uniforms. *They* say breeches are the hardest and they have made all kinds of clothing. So I take their word for it.
CPL: regimental and frock coats I always have a hard time easing the sleeves with no puckers curse those puckers!
8. What sutlers sell the best authentic reenacting clothing or fabric?? All time periods…
JK: Druid’s Oak
DD: I gotta show my love for Barkertown Sutlers. Go Missy! Woohoo!
JR: Steve Abolt Hands Down, National Parks Buy From Him. I Like Milk Creek Mercantile, And Jas Townsend. The Best Uniforms Come From Seamstresses And Tailors You Just Have To Find Them. Oh Check Out Garb The World For Medieval And Ancient.
JJ: Honestly, you are better off finding a local independent regimental seamstress if you can find one. Someone with experience in historical patters, and is confident in making alterations as needed. Someone that you can dedicate time with if your not pressured for a deadline or need for an event. Its better to get it done right – and accurately. Without or minimum sewing machine use. So it doesn’t look so industrial/manufactured. Not a big believer in “churn and burn” outfitters, ’cause they never really fit right. Especially as you age. For fabric you can contact Rancocas Merchant in NJ or 96 Storehouse in SC. I highly recommend them both. Need more info, you are free to contact me.
DS: Polish Hussar Supply Plus has an outstanding range of clothing, armor, and equipment for 17th c. Eastern Europe. www.polishhussarsupply.com
CC: Dennis and Peggy Earp run 96 District Storehouse. They have the best selection of fabric I’ve ever seen. They are out of Abbeville, SC. Their phone is 864-366-9600. www.96storehouse. They will send you swatches and they also carry patterns. Check them out.
SO: barkertown sutlers!
TP: I go with 96 also or paul dicflos i do most all my own sewing
CJ: The Captain’s Seamstress for me. She makes great medieval and 18c clothing all by hand.
BD: For Revwar, Burnley and Trwobridge, Wm. Booth Draper and Najecki Reproductions for authentic fabrics and notions.
9. Where can you buy or find period clothing and knitting patterns?
LB: there is a link on www.60thrifles.com that shows many suppliers of clothing patterns.
RL: timberline traders, Ohio Valley Peddler just to name some…
ED: Bonnie’s Pattern Shop, Ebay.
MA: Valerie Charneski makes fine 18th century Womens Clothing
SG: Gettysburg Sutler, next to route 15 outside of Gettysburg, both Rev war and Civil War period clothing
HSV: Knitting patterns: Hand Knit Hose by Donna Flood Kenton, Bonnet from Scotwars.com, Gagiana Barett (flat cap) pattern from the Curious Frau, and several Monmouth Cap patterns. Clothing: www.reconstructinghistory.com and Kass McGann does excellent research.
RN: http://www.ss-sutler.com, http://www.agsas.org, and www.raggedsoldier.com have some information on knitting and sewing as well.
SN: Depends on the period, for the 1840s to 1870 I have refered to the original ladies book, I have also checked some of the smaller county ot town musuems, they get local items from familys that have lived there.
SL: http://sykesutler.home.att.net/stuart.htm - American site Or http://www.thesealedknot.org.uk/books.asp England
GFFIII: 18th and early 19th c. hats www.cockedhats.com
AMG: for the 19th century: timeless stiches + sacramento city dry goods
